Stage 24 of 42 · Manufacturing

Printing

Screen, digital and sublimation printing.

What really happens at this stage

Garment printing covers three dominant technologies with different economics and hand-feel outcomes. Screen printing pushes ink through a stencil mesh using a squeegee, is cost-effective at higher volumes once screens are burned, and gives strong opacity on dark fabrics with plastisol or water-based inks. Digital direct-to-garment printing sprays fine droplets of ink directly onto fabric under computer control, suiting small runs, photographic detail, and quick changeovers without tooling cost, though throughput per piece is slower than screen printing. Sublimation transfers dye from a printed transfer paper to synthetic fabric under heat and pressure, bonding dye into the fibre itself rather than sitting on top, which gives a soft hand but works reliably only on polyester or polyester-blend substrates.

Choosing between methods depends on order quantity, design complexity, fabric type, and required wash durability, and many factories run more than one technology to cover their product mix. Registration accuracy, cure or fixation temperature, and ink deposit thickness are the main technical variables controlled at the machine, since under-cured prints crack or fade in washing while over-cured prints can scorch or stiffen fabric. Colour matching against approved lab dips or Pantone references is checked under standardised lighting before a print run is approved for production, and periodic wash testing confirms the print survives the garment's expected care cycle.

How it is done

1
Approve the artwork and colour
Match separations or spot colours against approved references under standard light before releasing to production.
2
Select the print method
Choose screen, digital, or sublimation based on order quantity, fabric type, and design detail required.
3
Prepare screens or files
Burn screens with correct mesh count for screen printing, or set up RIP profiles and print files for digital and sublimation runs.
4
Set registration and deposit
Align multi-colour registration within fine tolerance and set ink or dye deposit thickness for the design and fabric.
5
Cure or fix the print
Run the printed garment or transfer through the dryer, heat press, or calender at the temperature and dwell time the ink or dye system requires.
6
Wash-test and release
Run a wash cycle test on sample prints to confirm crack, fade, and adhesion resistance before releasing the bulk order.

Key metrics (indicative targets)

Metric	Working target	Why it matters
Colour match accuracy	Within approved tolerance of lab dip	Off-shade prints cause customer rejection even when the print quality itself is sound.
Cure or fixation compliance	Meets ink or dye supplier's temperature and dwell spec	Under-cured prints crack and fade in wash testing, causing field returns.
Print defect rate	Under 2%, indicative	Tracks registration errors, pinholes, and ink bleed needing rework or rejection.
Wash durability pass rate	High pass rate on agreed wash cycles	Confirms the print will survive the garment's expected consumer care regime.
Changeover time	Minutes for digital, longer for screen setup	Affects small-lot responsiveness and machine utilisation planning.

Targets are indicative working ranges, not standard or legal limits.

Control points to check and sign off

Artwork and colour approval signed off before production release
Screen mesh count or digital RIP profile matched to the design and fabric
Registration checked on a live sample before running the bulk quantity
Cure or fixation temperature and dwell time logged against the ink or dye specification
Wash test results recorded before shipment approval

Common pitfalls and their consequences

Approving artwork without a controlled-light colour check, leading to shade complaints
Under-curing prints to save cycle time, causing cracking after a few consumer washes
Using screen printing for very small runs, inflating cost through unnecessary screen setup
Attempting sublimation on cotton-rich fabric, giving weak or patchy colour transfer
Skipping wash testing before bulk approval, discovering adhesion failure only after shipment

Main activities

Production planning and line balancing
Cutting, bundling and sewing operations
Printing, embroidery and value-add processes

Quality risks

Print misregister

Sustainability risks

Ink & water use

AI opportunities

Automated print inspection

Official sources

Learn the skills used at this stage

Free GarmentEd lessons with worked calculations, checklists and practice questions for the work described above.

Also relevant: Embellishment Application, Value-Addition Safety and Chemical Controls.

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